Much has been written of the Mumbai dabbawallahs—the delivery men who ferry home-cooked meals (carried in a tiffin) from stove to office every day. They have become one of the wonders of this city, and a part of the lore imparted to Harvard Business School students (a world away) in a case study written about their six sigma rating.
It used to be that one would only eat home-cooked food made by mom or grandma, or perhaps, your lovely wife. Now, the options have expanded: you can get calorie conscious tiffins, a dabbah from your favorite canteen, and other specialty options.
One such option is LoveLunch, created for foodies who prefer to sample continental and pan-Asian cuisine rather than sticking to channa (chickpeas) and chaval (rice). LoveLunch has transformed the tiffin into art, bringing gourmet meals to expatriates and foodies across Mumbai each day. For those visiting or working in Mumbai for a few weeks/months, LoveLunch offers the experience of “tiffin” culture, without the spice or skepticism about where the food came from and how it was prepared.
On occasion, LoveLunchers receive an email previewing the day’s menu: Green Thai Curry of Fish and Steamed Rice, Japanese Teriyaki Chicken, Burmese Panthe Kauskwe with Rice Noodle. One day you’re in Beirut, the next you’re in Rome, then Tokyo and Naypyidaw (that’s Burma, folks).
The dabbahwallah system is unique to Mumbai. The nature of this city—scattered with people of all castes and creeds, and veined with an efficient train system—necessitates and enables a service that allows you to eat the food mandated by your religion or to keep your food separated from that of other castes. If you are a traditional Jain, onions and potatoes don’t pass your lips. As a Muslim, pork is off limits. Food, in India, is an integral part of your identity.
Today, the tiffin is a convenience. In a city where very few things are foolproof, it is rather charming that you can count on having your lunch ready and waiting each day, rain or shine.
LoveLunch (lovelunch@gmail.com) costs 189 Rs/day ($3.80), which is steep compared to a typical Indian tiffin, which would cost between 30 Rs and 60 Rs ($.60-$1.25). Many of the dabbawallahs have put a “15 day minimum booking fatwah” on delivery service, so you will have to commit. With LoveLunch, there’s not a vegetarian-only option, but there are several other specialty tiffin services to consider: Positive Health Tiffin: +91-22325-46660; Calorie Care +91-22-2412 2199; +91-22-2412 2111; Green Veggies Tiffin Services +91-9987777556.
For the abridged version of this story currently on the New York Times blog, click here.
