Arrived back in New York last night--my first trip home since I moved to India last December. I spoke to my mom and she sounded positively giddy to learn that I was back on American soil. I have to admit, I felt happy to be back after I went through immigration and the terse officer who stamped my passport allowed herself to say, "Welcome back!"
The ride from Newark (for an OBSCENE price) to Brooklyn was eerily silent. I heard the sound of the tires on the smooth asphalt, and that is all. Zip. Swallow the key. Silence.
First meal off the plane was sushi--no hamburgers or apple pie here--so pleased to have some fresh fish from the restaurant around the corner. Caught up with friends, shared war stories from the economic downturn. And slept.
On the N train to the city now. The guy on my right is reading a paperback copy of Star Wars. He's on the chapter called "The Courtship of Princess Leia." The girl on my left is doing some sort of dot-art picture with a yellow highlighter. To her left is a woman applying mascara. Nothing's changed.
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several years ago i spent a few months in india doing tsunami relief work and traveling. i didn't realize i'd been bitten by the india bug until i moved back to my comfortable, yet predictable life in new york. it didn't take long for me to relocate to india full-time to try to make a life. now, after three years in mumbai, i split my time between america's east coast and india's west coast. the difference between life here and life there is that everything in india begs to be written about.
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Friday, October 17, 2008
Premium Quality Curtains
My apartment in Mumbai looks straight into the apartment across the lane. My bedroom is reciprocal to their kitchen and living room, and because of that, I have an amazingly clear conception of the maid's life in my neighbor's house. The maid seems to live in the kitchen, where she cooks, obviously, and where she spends her "alone" time, does her personal grooming, washes her clothes, thinks about her day. She is a girl of about 18, and until a few weeks ago, I had never seen her outside of the kitchen, or outside of the apartment. She gets moving at 7 AM and does a few chores. Around 8:30 AM she finger combs her long thick hair, bringing it around the side of her neck and laying it flat down the front of her thin body. By 9 AM she is on to her face. She's washed it, and now she moisturizes, smoothing the lotion methodically down the sides of her face. She leads a quiet existence steeped in routine. Sometimes she sits at the window and watches the sleepy activity in our lane. We have never once made eye contact, nor have I seen her looking directly at my apartment although we are separated by only 20 feet.
If she does manage to steal glances, I wonder what she thinks about me. Eating cereal on my window seat, watching passersby, doing sun salutations, rushing out for work. Nothing very interesting, to be sure. But, I finally broke down and had curtains made. Not to block her out, but because I realized that if I know this much about her, surely she and the people who employ her must know as much about me.
These aren't just any curtains. It would have been expensive and a bit silly to have fancy curtains custom made for my windows--I don't know how long I'll stay, and you can't really take curtains with you. So, I channeled my inner interior designer, and became inspired. In general stores and corner grocery shops, there are huge sacks of rice and dry beans, similar to the bags of feed my mother buys for her horses and dogs. They are made of rough, brown burlap and stamped with the producer company's logo and design, in fuchsia and turquoise, green and yellow and cherry red. The logos are kitschy without meaning to be. One has an old rotary phone, another is festooned with doves, and my favorite pictures a balding man holding armfuls of money. "Premium quality," it announces in English. Export Quality Sooji. Goldfinch Hygenic Foods. Suyog Traders. Most of the other copy is in Hindi or Marathi.
I convinced a shop to sell me empty sacks for 25 cents a pop, and conceptualized my idea for several tailors who all thought I was out of my mind. I wanted them to cut the sacks in half and sew them into two long narrow Roman curtains. No go. Finally, we found a young boy who agreed to do it. It took two weeks--not sure why--but now, as I write, I have no idea what the maid is doing, and she has no idea I'm writing about her.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Cheers...where everybody knows your name
Writing from the fast train from Malad to Churchgate. Before I climbed on, I walked up to a little newsstand at the station to get something to read on the way downtown. There are at least two newsstands at every station offering magazines and newspapers in multiple languages--Hindi, Marathi and English.
Tonight, I tucked my head underneath the magazines hanging from the front of the stand to look for my favorite time pass, and before I said a word, the proprietor had pulled out the newest issue of Time Out Mumbai. I've only bought the magazine 2, maybe 3, times from this stand, so I was surprised.
Even when you are the only stalk of white asparagus growing on acres of green asparagus fields, it's easy to feel unnoticed. Mumbaikers share a quality with New Yorkers--we are all on a singular mission and unless something physically impedes you, you continue on your path. Other Indian cities cannot boast the same blase attitude. A dish-water blond in Delhi or Calcutta or Hyderabad would very likely feel penetrated by curious eyes.
The point is, I usually feel different from my fellow man, but always unknown.
Tonight I felt known. Recognized. I smiled genuinely. He smiled back and counted out my change.
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Tonight, I tucked my head underneath the magazines hanging from the front of the stand to look for my favorite time pass, and before I said a word, the proprietor had pulled out the newest issue of Time Out Mumbai. I've only bought the magazine 2, maybe 3, times from this stand, so I was surprised.
Even when you are the only stalk of white asparagus growing on acres of green asparagus fields, it's easy to feel unnoticed. Mumbaikers share a quality with New Yorkers--we are all on a singular mission and unless something physically impedes you, you continue on your path. Other Indian cities cannot boast the same blase attitude. A dish-water blond in Delhi or Calcutta or Hyderabad would very likely feel penetrated by curious eyes.
The point is, I usually feel different from my fellow man, but always unknown.
Tonight I felt known. Recognized. I smiled genuinely. He smiled back and counted out my change.
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Monday, October 13, 2008
The Hamptons of Bombay
I live in the Brooklyn of Bombay. And work in the Bronx of Bombay. And last weekend, I had the chance to go to the Hamptons of Bombay: a peninsula that hangs off the side of Bombay called Alibagh. Truth be told I didn't see much of Alibagh, because we stayed at our friend's house almost the entire time. But, just 25 minutes away by speed boat or 45 minutes by ferry, it is quite an amazing retreat from the city. The rich and famous just 'copter back and forth.
The View of Bombay from Alibagh
The View of Bombay from Alibagh
Silverfish
A girlfriend got married in Spetses, Greece at the start of last month, and I realized I've written nothing about it. Thought I'd share a few pictures, and say a little prayer of thanks to the women I know that marry Greek men, giving us all an opportunity to celebrate their love...on a Greek island.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Spectacular! Spectacular!
India Couture Week, Bombay's version of New York Fashion Week, was two weeks ago. A friend who is a radio DJ received free tickets, and was nice enough to donate them to her needy friends. So, two of us went to see Rohit Bal's designs walk down the runway. Bal, an freckly Indian gentleman, who seems to have a desire to bring back gold lamay and jodhpur pants (in black satin), presented his latest creations on twenty or so beautiful Indian models. But first there were giant floating lotus flowers and dancing men in white gowns and what looked like red toques. Quite the spectacle.
Friday, October 10, 2008
Richard Bona at Blue Frog
At this concert...Afro Jazz with a trumpet player from Brooklyn and a bassist from NYU. Check him out on YouTube.
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