I went to the National Gallery of Modern Art (NGMA) last week to see their painting exhibit. At museums and monuments throughout India, fees are levied based on whether you are an Indian or a foreigner. The foreigner price is usually at least 5 times that of the Indian price. I wouldn't mind if I was truly a tourist--I think that those from developed countries can usually afford to pay more than locals in a developing countries, and a few extra rupees shouldn't be an issue. But, I work for an Indian company and get paid in Indian rupees. It doesn't seem right for me to have to pay a foreigner's rate, when after a year living here, I hardly feel foreign.
So, when I walked up to the man at the little desk at the NGMA, he says, "For you," pointing to my Indian friend, "it's ten rupees." "You," pointing at me, "it's 150." What?! I was ready for a fight.
"Look," I said, "I work for an Indian company and live here." "I get paid in Indian rupees." "I am..." I started to lay out my defense line by line. I've tried this tactic before at the Prince of Wales Museum (now known by the impossibly long Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, which is such a mouthful that most people still call it POW) across the street, and it fell on deaf ears.
The NGMA ticket collector asked to see my identification. I had left it in the car which was several blocks away. I started up my defense again. "Really, I work here. I make rupees and spend rupees, just like you. I shouldn't have to pay the higher rate." He gave me a reluctant look. He looked around. And nodding his head side to side, said, "Ok, ten then."
Insert angels smiling down from above. Miraculous. I felt like I'd arrived. I felt like I was an Indian! As I toured around the museum I smiled at other foreigners smugly.
I know it may not seem like a big deal for those of you reading from outside of India. But, for a person who has been living here for awhile, and contributing to the economy and the community for years, I feel justified in wanting to be acknowledged in some way--as not just another passerby, visitor, tourist, foreigner, outsider.
My crusade has only begun. Next stop: the Taj Mahal.
I'm scheduled to go in two weeks. The Taj is not only the pinnacle of Indian beauty and architecture, it is a glowing example of the fees levied on those from the Western world. Twenty rupees for Indians. A whopping 970 for foreigners!
Will let you know how my argument goes there.
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