several years ago i spent a few months in india doing tsunami relief work and traveling. i didn't realize i'd been bitten by the india bug until i moved back to my comfortable, yet predictable life in new york. it didn't take long for me to relocate to india full-time to try to make a life. now, after three years in mumbai, i split my time between america's east coast and india's west coast. the difference between life here and life there is that everything in india begs to be written about.
Sunday, December 27, 2009
In Mumbai, Reinforcing a Silent Spirit
I forgot to post my latest piece for the New York Times! This one is online and it ran in print in the International Herald Tribune a few weeks ago. The slideshow is quite beautiful.
Mumbai, India: Divya Thakur, the founder of Design Temple, a product, furniture and graphics firm based in Mumbai, lives in a three-bedroom three-bathroom apartment behind the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower hotel. A year ago, the hotel and several other city landmarks were the targets of terrorist attacks. Some people living so close to such tragedy and violence may have considered moving, but Mumbai and its people are known for their hardy spirit. Ms. Thakur, 38, didn’t let it faze her.
“I gave my heart to my apartment the moment I saw it,” she said. “I didn’t even think about moving.”
But she did think about renovating. Shortly after the attack, Ms. Thakur began refurbishing the century-old space. Since she moved into it in 2003, the fifth-floor apartment had been doing double duty as her home and office. At the time, the 2,500-square-foot space was big enough to house her growing business and a small team of employees. She had partitioned it, creating a separate entrance for her work space, which was functional, but awkward. After five years, Ms. Thakur was desperate to have the whole space to herself.
Although Ms. Thakur’s designs are often modern and sometimes kitschy, she has an affinity for old buildings and artifacts. The apartment, currently valued at around the equivalent of $1 million (she would not say how much she paid for it originally), is on the top floor, and has 20-foot-tall angled ceilings, a bilevel layout due to an open attic and three balconies.
But, after years of neglect, the place has suffered from structural damage. She wanted to create a better flow and find a way to let in more light. Ms. Thakur’s father, an engineer, brought in people to help on an ad-hoc basis. “Usually you have a contractor, but we didn’t,” Ms. Thakur said. “It’s been hard to do it ourselves, but I prefer the flexibility it allows.” ...
Read the rest on the New York Times website here.
Friday, December 11, 2009
On my Left
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Saturday, November 21, 2009
A Taste of India, with Love
Much has been written of the Mumbai dabbawallahs—the delivery men who ferry home-cooked meals (carried in a tiffin) from stove to office every day. They have become one of the wonders of this city, and a part of the lore imparted to Harvard Business School students (a world away) in a case study written about their six sigma rating.
It used to be that one would only eat home-cooked food made by mom or grandma, or perhaps, your lovely wife. Now, the options have expanded: you can get calorie conscious tiffins, a dabbah from your favorite canteen, and other specialty options.
One such option is LoveLunch, created for foodies who prefer to sample continental and pan-Asian cuisine rather than sticking to channa (chickpeas) and chaval (rice). LoveLunch has transformed the tiffin into art, bringing gourmet meals to expatriates and foodies across Mumbai each day. For those visiting or working in Mumbai for a few weeks/months, LoveLunch offers the experience of “tiffin” culture, without the spice or skepticism about where the food came from and how it was prepared.
On occasion, LoveLunchers receive an email previewing the day’s menu: Green Thai Curry of Fish and Steamed Rice, Japanese Teriyaki Chicken, Burmese Panthe Kauskwe with Rice Noodle. One day you’re in Beirut, the next you’re in Rome, then Tokyo and Naypyidaw (that’s Burma, folks).
The dabbahwallah system is unique to Mumbai. The nature of this city—scattered with people of all castes and creeds, and veined with an efficient train system—necessitates and enables a service that allows you to eat the food mandated by your religion or to keep your food separated from that of other castes. If you are a traditional Jain, onions and potatoes don’t pass your lips. As a Muslim, pork is off limits. Food, in India, is an integral part of your identity.
Today, the tiffin is a convenience. In a city where very few things are foolproof, it is rather charming that you can count on having your lunch ready and waiting each day, rain or shine.
LoveLunch (lovelunch@gmail.com) costs 189 Rs/day ($3.80), which is steep compared to a typical Indian tiffin, which would cost between 30 Rs and 60 Rs ($.60-$1.25). Many of the dabbawallahs have put a “15 day minimum booking fatwah” on delivery service, so you will have to commit. With LoveLunch, there’s not a vegetarian-only option, but there are several other specialty tiffin services to consider: Positive Health Tiffin: +91-22325-46660; Calorie Care +91-22-2412 2199; +91-22-2412 2111; Green Veggies Tiffin Services +91-9987777556.
For the abridged version of this story currently on the New York Times blog, click here.
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
A Shopping Crawl Through the Suburbs of Mumbai
Excerpted from my blog on Globespotters, The New York Times. For full post, click here.
This city’s northern suburbs have found their calling. Lacking great architecture and elaborate temples, Bandra and Khar now moonlight as a treasure chest for the fashion forward. Take the time to nose around these residential neighborhoods’ many boutiques and you’ll leave with one-of-a-kind togs. We’ve mapped out our favorite spots; use one of Bandra’s ubiquitous auto-rickshaws to help you navigate.
First, footwear. You’ll need something open-toed and easy to slip off if you’re visiting homes or temples. Skip the chaos on Bandra’s Link Road and hit Sai Vaibhav Footwear (14th Road; 91-22-2600-1961), a corner stand without signage (it’s cater-corner to a Domino’s outlet). Strike a hard bargain: Don’t pay more than 250 rupees (about $5) for a pair of Kolhapuri chappals, traditional leather sandals in brown, gold or silver.
Head up the hill to Dr. Ambedkar Road and take a left. About a block down, you’ll find Mela (Siffin Apartment, Dr. Ambedkar Road; 91-22-2649-7562), where many a bohemian has dug through the tie-die racks to find the perfect prairie skirt or a fuchsia head scarf. A sequined shrug is yours for under 1500 rupees.
Take Zig Zag Road up to Pali Hill, turn right, then tumble towards Union Park. Near the bottom of the hill (left side) is Butter (20/A Rembrandt, Nargis Dutt Road, Pali Hill; 91-22-2605-6554), which you’ll find by looking for the double B sign. Butter features local designers, balloon dresses, bright clutches and über-high heels. While they generally only carry one of any item, Nikita, the owner, can ask the designer to make it in a new size, color or variation.
Down the hill you’ll find Dhoop (101 Khar Sheetal Apartments, Dr. Ambedkar Road, Union Park; 91-22-2649-8646). Choose the perfect gift from their selection of mugs, jewelry, vases, candles and soaps — many of which are made by rural artisans.
On the tree lined stretch of Khar Danda, you’ll find the adjacent and equally low-key Aseesa and Kilol (Shop No. 1, Plot No. 40, corner of 18th Road and Khar Danda; 91-22-2649-0490), great for finding kurtas, loose, gauzy, pajama-like shirts.
Nearby D7 (Turning Point Building, intersection of 1st Cross Road and 16th Cross Road) is actually a set of seven interlocking high-end shops featuring posh Delhi designers. Amazing gowns and cocktail dresses; embellished salwar kameez, traditional pants and tunic; and psychedelic Manish Arora bags can be found here — for a price (clothing starts at about 2,000 rupees).
Your final destination is also our favorite: Attic (Bir Sagar, 396/20, Flat #1; 91-22-3216-9292; www.attic.in), where two sets of sisters have teamed up to create a darling corner shop. You’ll find well-cut pants, jumpers, garden party dresses, tunics, and a few bits and pieces for the cosmopolitan man. They also stock work by local artists, and have eclectic sets of bangles and necklaces. (Clothing starts at about 1,000 rupees.)
Fish Back on Mumbai Tables--NYT Clip
AFTER a relatively mild monsoon season in Mumbai, fishermen are back on the seas, trolling for the best the murky waters have to offer.
Any true Mumbaiker knows not to eat seafood during monsoon season, from June to September. The choppy, churning waters stir up mud and grime, making it hard to find a fresh catch. And the government enforces a seasonal ban to keep the fish population sustainable.
Now that the rains have receded, the city is breaking its collective seafood fast. There are the no-brainer choices you’re likely to find in guidebooks, like the king crab at Trishna or the Goan fish curry at Mahesh Lunch Home. But if you are looking for something off the tourist-beaten path, better to head for a few lesser-known places that serve authentic coastal seafood.
Read more...
Bubba Gump Shrimp Factory
So, yeah, word to the wise. Don't drink the water. And don't eat the shrimp.
When I moved into my apartment three months ago, I was excited to be on the water with a view of the ocean from my bedroom and kitchen. I didn't mind that a few people had taken up residence in make-shift huts on the rocky beach.
Now, the slum dwellers have been booted in order for the shrimpmongers to dry their catch. In the image above, the pink blankets you see are the shrimp, which have been laid on the ground, where the crows snack on them, and the dust from passing vehicles is thrown. Did I mention they are ON THE GROUND?
When the sun hits them, it is quite picturesque, the pink shells glistening in the sun. But, any beauty in the process is lost upon inhalation. Sun dried shrimp creates an incredible stench--think Chinatown times ten. The ocean breeze--damn that ocean breeze--carries that perfume, up, up and in to the third floor of my little sea view apartment.
Where did you go?
Yesterday morning, as I walked past the oldies doing laughter yoga in a park across from my house, my neighbor, an old retiree with explosive Albert Einstein hair and a warm face looked over the fence and yelled, “Where did you go?” I waved back.
This morning, as I took Uma for her walk, I saw some of my other buddies. First, there was the chap who always hits on me—no shame at 6:30 in the morning, this guy. He must be about 60, with pockmarked skin and bright, dancing eyes. He generally sits with 4-5 other men his age stretching and kvetching on the waterfront. “You like Indian dogs?” he asked me once. Yes, I nodded. “So,” he said with a sparkle in his eye, “you like Indian men, too?” This morning, on the “boardwalk” I heard a hearty “Hello again!” and looked up to see him walking to meet up with his padres.
Later, when I went to my neighborhood coconut stand, the young proprietor, who lives in the slum near my house, a man with whom I have never exchanged a word except to order a coconut, gave me a shy, look of remembrance and welcoming. Meanwhile, the fresh juice woman, another person I’ve never actually spoken to, who sits next to the coconut seller, got out of her chair and came up to me and said, “You’re back! You were gone a long time. I thought you were sick. Bad health?”
Then there was the kid who biked past Uma and me as we walked back to the house. “John!” he yelled. “Hello, John!” This guy and his friends call my dog John—a story for another time—and there he was, noticing that “John” and I are back on the streets of Bandra.
I never realized that I was part of these people’s worlds—I only thought they were in mine. Their noticing, the simple acknowledgment of my absence, has made it kind of nice to be back.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
The Weather
One day, after it rains, I will check my rain gauge and I will compare how much I have here and how little you have there, and I will speak with certainty about the ground drying out. I will admire your horse and you will praise my new mower. I will revel in watching the mercury fall. And, I will sit in the den of my log cabin as the light streams in, writing of my life before, when there were no seasons.
(Inspired by a recent trip home to Texas)
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Sunday, September 06, 2009
Gray Day in Bombay
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Friday, September 04, 2009
Touring Mumbai on Two Wheels
The Asiatic Society is housed at Town Hall, one of the sites on Mumbai's City Tour.
MUMBAI | Cosmopolitan hubs around the world have added bicycle tours to their roster of ways to experience culture and architecture. Touring cities like Barcelona, Paris and Amsterdam on a bike offers a romantic way to wend through a city’s history. In Mumbai, though, biking can be a bit more complicated.
Bike lanes are an anomaly here. Traffic does not follow rational rules. There are few bike stands. No maps in the land of landmarks. Definitely no right of way. In Mumbai, you ride a bike out of necessity, not leisure. But one company offers the opportunity to see the south side of the city by bike: Odati Adventures (17/8, Manish Nagar, 4 Bungalows, J.P. Road; 91-22-2287-1715; www.odati.com), which organizes all kinds of tours, including ones on two wheels. Read more at The New York Times...
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Sunday, August 16, 2009
After Decriminalization, A Gay Pride March in Mumbai
Image: A sign painting workshop, in preparation for Mumbai's Queer Azaadi March, today.
While much of the world celebrated Gay Pride in June, Mumbai waited. The Queer Azaadi March (”azaadi” means freedom), in fact, is this Sunday, a day after the 62nd anniversary of India’s independence. The implicit association: the freedom of sexual orientation and the country’s freedom from the clutch of colonialism.
Nearly 2,000 lesbian, gay, bi- and transsexual citizens and human rights advocates are expected to gather on the August Kranti Maidan in South Mumbai. There is much to celebrate: last month the New Delhi High Court repealed Section 377 of India’s penal code, which criminalized homosexuality. However, the decision is currently being challenged, which makes the March even more important to the LGBT community.
Only the second “pride” march in Mumbai, the act of being “out” is still a statement here...
Read the rest of the post on the New York Times blog, Globespotters.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
1 bedroom, oven, sea view
On Saturday, after searching for a new place for 6 weeks, I signed a lease for a little "bachelorette" pad in Bandra, north of Bombay. It is one of the few apartments I've seen here that has an oven, a real oven, in which you can bake things. Most places just have a few gas burners that sit on top of the counter. The oven caught my eye, and although you can't find all-purpose flour here, I somehow envisioned myself baking chocolate chip cookies and watching Sex and the City with girlfriends and was sold. The sea view came in a close second, and I am looking forward to watching the ocean rush each morning, after a night of eating baked goods.
The search has been quite an epic process, partly because I am a single woman, which is frowned upon by many housing societies here (egads, she might be a swinger!), and mostly because I own a dog.
"What kind of dog is it?" my broker asked. "Alsatian, Labrador, Golden Retriever?" he wondered, hopefully. We are now judging dogs, apparently.
She's an Indian dog, I said proudly. The broker was deflated. This would not help my case.
I'm a foreigner, which scores high points with landlords, because they think we're "cleaner" (not my words...his). But Uma, the pup, made it so that I did not have the pick of the litter when it came to housing.
Many apartment buildings and sections of neighborhoods are run by housing societies here. Often, the societies are organized around religion or caste, and some are stricter than others about who and what they allow. My current society could care less about most things. Everyone keeps to themselves, and although my neighbors think I'm a swinger because I'm single (for the record, I don't even know what a swinger is, but in Indian parlance, it is not a good thing), they don't bother me.
The first place I found was in a Muslim housing society, and although they were willing to take me, they were not willing to house my dog. The second moderately suitable place I found was in a Roman Catholic society. "So, they don't mind that I have a dog?" I asked the building manager. "No, no. This is a Roman Catholic society, so as long as you are Roman Catholic, you can bring a dog." I didn't have the heart to tell him that not only am I not Roman Catholic, I am not Catholic, and if put to the test, wouldn't pass as a baptized Christian.
The last place, before I signed my lease, was in a Muslim slum, and they were happy to have me, and my dog, if I would walk down a dark alley filled with rats and questionable loafers (the male kind, not the shoes). I thought I could make do, but, alas, my friend who screened the place for me did not think it was a good choice.
So, a place by the sea, with an oven, who will accept my Indian dog (as long as she does not bite the furniture) is where you can find me.
No Dogs, No Maids
India and her Indians can claim that this is a modern democracy, and that caste no longer matters, but underneath the surface, it is still a backwards, mean place in quiet ways.
A woman is already in the elevator, has pushed the button for her floor, and just before the door closes, a young woman of 16 or 17 joins her. They are both Indian, both female. The building security guard, hardly much older than the girl, has seen her get in the elevator and he follows and stops the sliding door from closing. The older woman, the one who got in the elevator first, is telling the girl to get out, and the security guard seconds this decision.
The girl is told to take the elevator opposite. It has an open-and-shut gate that makes a racket when you close it, and that you can catch your fingers in if you're not careful. It is the elevator that maids and dogs can ride in. The other elevator, the nicer, shinier, quieter one, is for "For members and guests ONLY," as a small sign above the door indicates.
What is this? New Orleans in the 60s? The girl, a maid, lives with a family on the 8th floor. The woman is just a snit who lives in this building and thinks that she is better than the people who serve her breakfast and take care of her children. This is simple caste-basted segregation.
Indians deny that the caste system persists, and yet, can't even condescend to ride in the same elevator or call their their maid by her first name; she is instead often called what she is, bai , Hindi for maid. And the security guard, likely of similar stature and class as the maid, reinforces the rule, just doing what he's been told. They, the "master" and the guard, are separately, and quite desperately, holding on to their place in society through small, pointed, dirty ways.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
In Mumbai's Midst, Joining the Pilgrims
MUMBAI | Devout Muslims go to Mecca. Jews travel to Jerusalem. Catholics visit the Vatican. Hindus go to… well, there are numerous pilgrimage sites for Hindus, and some are quite harrowing. But for the urban Hindu, there are many shorter, less extreme pilgrimages. Mumbai has several, one of which takes you to a 200-year old temple in the center of town.
Each and every Tuesday in the wee hours of the morning, devotees (and the respectfully curious) can experience the Shree Darshan, or vision of the god, at Siddhivinayak. This temple in Prabhadevi, Dadar, is devoted to Ganesha, the elephant god. Pilgrims often walk barefoot from their houses...
Read full post at nytimes.com
Monday, June 08, 2009
Urban Rappellers
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Sunday, June 07, 2009
Tuesday, June 02, 2009
Sunday, May 10, 2009
Mother of Microfinance
Two weeks ago, I made a visit to Ahmedabad, to interview Ela Bhatt, the founder of SEWA, the Self Employed Women's Association. Ela Ben is a beautiful, gentle woman, now in her 70s, who has empowered over a million women in the past 3 decades, by bringing them together, unionizing them, offering them microcredit, and giving them guidance on how to run their small enterprises.
Ela Ben (a form of respect, meaning sister Ela), who is known for her simple, cotton saris, is one of those rare creatures which can be classified as salt of the earth. We sat in her living room, with her grandchildren skittering by every few minutes, and talked about her life.
She came of age as India did, turning 14 the year that India celebrated its independence. She grew up in a family of lawyers, and because she had no brothers, the mantle fell to her to take up the practice. She completed her law degree, and then, using the teachings of Mahatma Ghandi, went to work with the poor, eventually finding her place amidst poor women, choosing to advocate for them.
While she has a gentle disposition, her mind is strong and lucid, and her movements are sprightly. At 75, she seems much younger, as if she's spent the last fifty years doing yoga and breathing pure oxygen. I towered over her; she is only about 5 feet tall. But she floored me with her wisdom.
I went to see her to find out her perspectives on the impact of microfinance, for our next issue of Microfinance Insights. But what I really wanted to know was her thoughts on women's political leadership (Ela Ben once served in India's upper house of Parliament) and if she thinks the divide between India's rich and poor will ever really change.
On the latter, she told me this:
"I am not very proud of my generation. We have left nothing for you. We are eating up the earth, exhausting all our resources, without still seeing a paradigm shift. We need to think afresh, the solution lies in decentralizing and localizing resources and power, particularly pertaining to decision making. We have to see that everyone has enough to eat, has access to primary health care and education and to ensure that, I follow the principle of 100 miles. The five primary needs, food, clothing, shelter, primary education and health care have to be made available to people within hundred miles of where they live. As soon as your agricultural produce or the products of your labor go farther than that, it is out of your reach. I am not saying we have to go back 50 years to make that change happen. Knowledge should flow like oceanic circles, with local and global components overlapping with each other. Knowledge and people must come closer, while being strongly rooted. Until that exchange happens, disparity will remain and all that we are going to be left with is hunger and violence."
Along with Nelson Mandela, Jimmy Carter, and Mary Robinson, she is a member of the Council of Elders, the diplomatic group enlisted to mediate and advise on global problems.
For the full interview, please visit www.microfinanceinsights.com
Saturday, May 09, 2009
India's Harvard
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Line em up, Move em Out
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Wednesday, May 06, 2009
Bridges to Entry
Last week, over 400 social entrepreneurs, social investors, and socially motivated types converged to talk shop in Bombay (that’s Mumbai for you progressives). The Sankalp Social Enterprise and Investment Forum brought people from across India, and some very committed folks from abroad (who we hope used some sort of carbon off-setting system), to discuss how we can create inclusive wealth for those living at the base of the pyramid.
Read more here...
Tuesday, May 05, 2009
Isn't it Ironic
I returned from yoga this morning in a rickshaw which cost 25 rupees (50 cents). I handed the driver a 50 rupee note, but as usual, he had no change. Early in the morning, rickshaw drivers have a hard time breaking even the smallest bills because they are just starting their shift and are usually empty handed except for a few coins. It's only over the course of the day that they stockpile tens and twenties and fifties. By the end of the day, change isn't a problem. But, at 8 in the morning, it is.
We tried to get change from three passersby, but no luck. And no shops had opened yet. Finally, from inside the rickshaw, I see a woman in a sari stop and pull her coin purse from the inner folds around her waist. I couldn't see her face because of the curved roof of the rickshaw, but she started counting out tens to hand to me.
I ducked my face down to thank her, and there was my trash lady--the woman who comes every morning to collect my waste, a position very low on the totem poll in terms of caste and position in Indian society; even the maid that cleans my apartment balks at taking out the trash. And, yet,here was my trash woman loaning me money--or at least, helping me out. I could see that this was about all the money she had in her soiled change pouch, but she willingly gave it, without knowing or caring who was in the rickshaw.
Saturday, May 02, 2009
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Vote for me, the Blue Lotus
Unlike in America where there is one official day for everyone to vote (of course there are early voting opportunities and absentee ballots, but everyone knows that on the Tuesday after the first Monday in November, they can vote), here there is a four week time span and you vote depending on your region and constituency on a specific day. Because India mobilizes about 600 million people to vote, there's not enough machinery, security, etc. to handle it all at once. To give you an idea of the kind of manuveuring required, they had to move cricket season in order to have enough security available for the elections!
Many of these 600 million voters are illiterate. How do you make an impression on a voter who can't read? You use a symbol and a color. Take for example, the man pictured above. I don't know who he is, but in the flyer that his people handed me as their parade passed my rickshaw (captive audience--we were stuck in his traffic jam) he says to look for the blue lotus on the ballot. In addition to his symbol and color, his flyer was actually a 3-page booklet translated into 3 different languages: Hindi, Marathi, and English. Intense.
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Vote for me, the Blue Lotus
Unlike in America where there is one official day for everyone to vote (of course there are early voting opportunities and absentee ballots, but everyone knows that on the Tuesday after the first Monday in November, they can vote), here there is a four week time span and you vote depending on your region and constituency on a specific day. Because India mobilizes about 600 million people to vote, there's not enough machinery, security, etc. to handle it all at once. To give you an idea of the kind of manuveuring required, they had to move cricket season in order to have enough security available for the elections!
Many of these 600 million voters are illiterate. How do you make an impression on a voter who can't read? You use a symbol and a color. Take for example, the man pictured above. I don't know who he is, but in the flyer that his people handed me as their parade passed my rickshaw (captive audience--we were stuck in his traffic jam) he says to look for the blue lotus on the ballot. In addition to his symbol and color, his flyer was actually a 3-page booklet translated into 3 different languages: Hindi, Marathi, and English. Intense.
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Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Blessed Bananas
Tonight he invited Uma for a walk in his garden, and invited me along as her chaperone, although he made me let go of the leash and just drop it on the ground. "She won't go anywhere. She knows this place is good. Dogs know. They know good people from bad." He was right. She didn't run away. Just went around mouthing his plants, tasting the leaves with her tongue, but not biting them.
He invited her inside his house, which is filled with cats, and whose focal point is a small smoking shrine. The wooden shrine hangs on the wall, and incense pipes out of it throughout the day. He reached his index finger into a little pot sitting on the ledge of the shrine, and with his finger, he marked Uma's forehead--a blessing. Then, he did the same to mine, giving me a white dot above and between my eyes. Then he gave me two small fat bananas, as "prasad," an item that is first offered to a deity, then consumed.
I wasn't sure what he wanted me to do with the bananas, as I knew that they were blessed bananas and I felt that they would be wasted on me. What are these, I asked? He said, "These are bananas. Have you not seen them before?" No, yes, I have, but what should I do with them? It seemed bad to just polish them off. Shouldn't they sit on a shelf somewhere, I thought? "You eat them," he said. "Have you had them before?"
The man thinks that he is introducing me to an entirely new fruit.
I swallowed my smile, and said thank you. He asked us to sit down. Uma would have loved to. I wouldn't have minded. But, we needed to go. I hated to tell him why--how do you tell a saint that you're about to be late for a Skype conference call? Particularly when he's just given you the fruit of the Gods? Priorities. A message from above, me thinks.
Friday, April 10, 2009
Thursday, April 09, 2009
Never a Dull Moment
Here in the West Village of Mumbai (the New York Times' words, not mine), there's always someone chanting something. I live next to a temple (as many people do in India--they certainly abound), and am used to hearing ululations coming from next door. So, it took me a minute to notice the tinkling of bells and lilting voices tonight. When I finally went to the window, it turned out there was a bit of a ruckus, if you will, on the street. Already in my PJs, I threw on a scarf for modesty's sake and went outside. Everyone else on my little lane was already at our front gate, watching a traffic jam develop.
My neighbor, a woman I've never actually spoken to before (seen but not heard), turned to me and said, "You must know that there is an Indian festival today." A statement. To be honest, I didn't know, and I was surprised that she spoke English. We've passed each other numerous times on the stairs and never said a word to each other.
"No," I said, "I didn't know." "You must know Hanuman, then? It's his festival day."
Ding. This explains a lot actually. At every temple in the neighborhood for the past few days, there have been elaborate gatherings, and always, always those amazing marigold marigolds. India is a festive land, so sometimes, one overlooks the occasional festival--opting out by not asking the what or the why, and just letting it be.
I had intended to sit this one out.
Another neighbor, an old man, came up to me. "It's Hanuman festival!" Yes. "Do you know Hanuman?" "The monkey god, right?" I asked. "He is a symbol of strength," he told me. Hmmm, I could use a little at the moment.
The old man, with a palsy that makes his hands quake, dressed in all white, urged me to go touch the passing shrine, being carried by nearly 10 men. "No," I said, "I don't want to interfere." He urged me twice more. No, I said. But as I did, I hoped that maybe Hanuman would send some strength over to my side of the road. Yes, he is a monkey, who is a god, but you never know...The man turned to go up to the shrine again, lighting some incense and wafting the smoke of the candle towards his face. As he did so, I snuck away from the crowd and went home.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Sunday, February 22, 2009
"Slumdog Millionaire": What's your final answer?
Girls sort through plastic caps in Holambi, a slum outside of Delhi, as a way to make a few extra rupees.
Here's my article on Slumdog, which was published in the Austin American Statesman, today, February 22, Oscar Sunday.
If India is the center of the world, I am at the center of the center. I'm feeling my way through the gray narrow corridors of Asia's largest slum, Dharavi, in Mumbai. I'm keeping my eye on the ground to prevent tripping on a pipe or dipping my foot in a drain.
Shards of sunlight filter through the tin roofs above, and little girls in threadbare dresses stare up at me as I pass by their doorways. After several tight corners, and another wobbly corridor, I'm spit out onto a square acre of trash. This is an ugly place.
If you have seen "Slumdog Millionaire," one of the films gunning for a best picture Oscar tonight, you've been here, too. The film's director, Danny Boyle, did something most Indian directors have avoided: He filmed in India's most extreme reality, the slum.
Boyle isn't the first or only director who has shed light on the lives of slum children (and to be frank, I don't think his priority was to make a socially conscious film). Mira Nair, director of "Monsoon Wedding" and "The Namesake," tried to do the same in her 1988 film "Salaam Bombay!" What struck me about watching Nair's film recently is that nothing has changed. The film was made two decades ago, but it could have been made yesterday. It, too, was up for an Academy Award — best foreign film — but it didn't win. Judging from the condition of today's slums, it didn't effect much change, either.
This is the way 55 percent of Mumbai's population lives. According to a recent World Bank report, 42 percent of India's people live below the poverty line. Make no mistake: That's not the fault of the film.
There are two kinds of viewers: those who open their eyes to an alternative existence, where indoor plumbing cannot be found, and then after two hours return home to their double-ply toilet paper. Then there are those who see a movie, dwell on it, do an Internet search or two, and maybe do something about it.
"Slumdog Millionaire" is about a boy who is orphaned in the 1992 Hindu-Muslim riots and later beats the odds and lands a seat on the Indian version of "Who Wants to be a Millionaire?" (pronounced "Mil-en-air!" by the film's slimy show host).
That "Slumdog Millionaire" has taken the world by storm is a bit of a mystery to many Indians.
For middle-class viewers, the movie is missing signature Bollywood dance numbers (with the exception of a lovely jig at the end) and has been a nonevent. The middle class grew up seeing slums and doesn't particularly empathize with the people who live in them.
Upper-class Indians choose not to acknowledge this existence. India is shining inside their plush, temperature-controlled, chauffeur-driven reality — and they don't want to change that. "Slumdog" looks outside their tinted windows and contradicts India's emerging market growth story.
The people the film is actually about — the slum dwellers — either haven't heard of it or don't have the money to see it. Would you blow a day's wages to see something you live in every day? Of those who do know about it, many are offended by the word "slumdog," which is a machination of the film's writers, not an actual word used in Hindi parlance. "They think we're dogs?" slum dwellers have asked. Of the few who have seen the movie, they haven't imbibed a message of hope. Luck or destiny landed Jamal, the film's protagonist, a seat on the game show, not hard work or merit.
So, who is the film for?
For you, Whole Foods shopper. For you, Sixth Street girl. Would you believe that it is your trash that ends up in India's slums? Dharavi has an annual turnover of $665 million because its inhabitants are creating products for Western consumption (Wal-Mart sources products here) and recycling our junk (old air conditioners and plastics from the U.S. and United Kingdom land here).
"Slumdog" is a colorful, exciting and vibrant kaleidoscope made for your viewing pleasure. The story, set to a rump-shaking score, has rags-to-riches triumph and romance. It gives shape to what you've heard about India: that people are poor, that beggars abound, and that it is flat, hot and crowded. "It's just as I thought," you might think, as you leave the theater.
"The film, although enjoyable, is exotica served up for a Western audience. ... The filmmakers are looking for awards in the West, not understanding in the East," said Sundar Barra, adviser to SPARC, an Indian organization working to alleviate urban poverty.
Barra pointed to several liberties the writers took with the script. First, children would never read "The Three Musketeers" in school. Second, they would never stoop so low as to jump into a vat of human waste to get an autograph. And many have pointed to the casting of a British Indian actor with an unmistakable accent as a slum boy.
Like a James Frey memoir, you can't take any movie to be 100 percent bona fide. Dwelling on the film's flaws misses the point. The elements that are true are what matter.
Yes, there are child prostitutes. Yes, thousands of children emigrate from villages to Mumbai each year to make a living. Yes, there is a very real culture of begging. Yes, children are mutilated to garner pimps more money.
Happy or not, growing or not, incredible or not, India and its poor exist, have existed and will continue to exist in wretched conditions that none of us would wish on anyone — unless someone does something.
"Slumdog" is a friendly reminder. A gentle poke. A whisper that the fantasy hides a harsher truth. It's OK to enjoy the delicious joy ride through Jamal's life. I certainly did. But I hope we don't find ourselves watching another such film about slum life in India two decades from now. "Slumdog" might offer moviegoers an alternate reality, but it isn't an alternate world.
What are the odds that "Slumdog Millionaire" will win an Oscar? What are the odds that you will do anything to change what you saw?
What is your final answer?
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Chaka Khan!
Zakir Hussain, an internationally known tabla player, tap danced with his hands. And the crowd weaved and bobbed.
(Update: I had a couple of questions from readers about what the occasion was. Last week there were several public events to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Martin Luther King's visit to India. One of thse events was a jazz performance by several major American artists. Additionally, MLK Jr.'s son, Martin Luther King III, was here to remember his father's legacy, and I attended an interesting, but very hot (no A/C), discussion about the similarity between MLK's approach during the Civil Rights Movement and Mahatma Ghandi's nonviolent ethos. From the US Consulate website:
Martin Luther King III and a U.S. Congressional delegation led by Rep. John Lewis and Rep. Spencer Bachus are visiting Mumbai and Ahmedabad while in western India, February 18-20. The visit is part of an India-wide visit by Martin Luther King III to retrace the steps of his father's pilgrimage in 1959. Upon Dr. King, Jr.'s return to the U.S., he and other leaders of the civil rights movement drew on Gandhi's ideas to transform American society. At their first public event in Mumbai, Martin Luther King III and the U.S. Congressional delegation visited the Gateway of India to honor the victims of Mumbai's 11/26 attacks. Martin Luther King III explained that his father's ideas on non-violence developed during his visit to India to study Mahatma Gandhi, in 1959. The terrorist attacks launched from the Gateway of India illustrated the need to resolve differences peacably as Gandhi advocated. Congressman John Lewis, active in the struggle to secure civil rights for African-Americans, marched with Martin Luther King Jr. to Montgomery, Alabama. He advocated non-violence as a path to resolve the differences between peoples.
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Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Itinerary Part Two
Image: Thinking Man at the Taj Mahal
Just when I thought I was becoming numb to India’s “unique sensibilities” my family arrived to remind me that I live in the my own version of the Eternal Sunshine of a Spotless Mind, an upside-down, inside-out neosurrealist place where nothing ever happens in the order it should. Every time you think that, by golly, this city has its cow population under control, one just comes mumbling along out of nowhere.
My mom, an Austinite, and my brother, a Houstonian, visited two weeks ago, and having seen Slumdog, they were interested in partaking in the “slum tour.” I can’t say that it was entirely their idea. I presented them with options—and this one sounded like a step off the beaten path, and an interesting alternative to shopping in Bandra or getting Thai foot massages which my brother quickly vetoed.
This tour has been around for some time, but when people first started getting wind of it, many were outraged, for the same reason Slumdog Millionaire has gotten some slack: profiting on poverty. To be honest, I don’t think that the tour company is actually making much of a profit, but the fact of the matter is that the tour, and the film are “pro-slum dweller.” Reality and Slumdog have opened many an eye to the culture of begging and child prostitution in India.
The tour operators, Reality Tours and Travels, are actually trying to give visitors a new perspective on the lives of the poor and demonstrate that people living in this slum are not lazing around, as one might presume, but working very hard. Dharavi has an annual turnover of US$665 million, would you believe? Much of that comes from creating products for the West, or recycling our junk (old air conditioners and plastics from the US and the UK land here). As my mom said, “We are living off the backs of these people.”
It makes sense to try to understand how the other half lives--indeed this is how 55% of Mumbai's population lives--in slums. So, we went. This was just one of the "hotspots" I took my family to an effort to show them India's many wonders.
Here's the rest of our itinerary (starting from where I left off in my previous entry below):
Day 6: Taj Mahal...they LOVED it. At the end of the trip, they all said this was one of their favorite things. I think that they also wanted to say rug shoppping, which is what we also did in Agra. We didn't mean to buy 8x10 hand-woven rugs. It just happened. (Also visited Agra Fort, which was fantastic!)
Day 7: Breakfast in bed at the Imperial Hotel and three hours of Seinfeld reruns (this is our vacation, after all). Tour of Delhi government buildings, where several Indian tourists were much more interested in taking a picture of Scot's lady friend, than they were in taking a picture of the Parliament buildings. Verbal fisticuffs with our driver who was trying to pull the wool over our eyes. Shopping at FabIndia--Mom will now officially stick out in Austin upon her return. Dinner at Turtle Cafe in Delhi and then to the Old Delhi Railway Station in all its glory. Here, we took advantage of the porters dressed in red, who carried our luggage on top of their heads.
Day 8: Landed in Jodhpur after a night train ride--not everyone's favorite part of the trip. Banana pancakes for breakfast at Cosy Guest House. Wandering around Jodhpur's blue lanes to Mehangarh Fort. Guided tour and guided walk around old market. Home, nap, dinner, cards.
Day 9: To Rohet Garh, about an hour from Jodhpur. Lunch of Rajasthani food, Shirodhara massage--oil dripping on the head for 30 minutes--unbelieveably relaxing. Afternoon horseback ride on Marwari horses. Jeep to Wilderness Tents. Dinner.
Day 10: Early morning breakfast spread. Drive to Ranakpur, a huge Jain temple. Arrive Devi Garh. Cue music. Cue rose petals raining from the sky to honor our arrival.
Day 11: Udaipur. Palace. Mumbai. Sleep.
Day 12: Nothing like topping off a trip with a Dharavi slum tour. Lunch at Good Earth Tasting Room. Colaba Causeway. Indigo Deli. Home.
Day 13: Thai massages. Last minute shopping. Peshawari for dinner. Plane.
The sentiment, after this whirlwind of travel, seemed to be good. They liked India--in smallish doses. As I said goodbye, Scot's lady friend gave me a hug and said, "I survived!" No one got booted off the subcontinent.
Monday, February 02, 2009
Survivor: India
All I can say is thank God for Jeremy Piven, who has helped to upgrade their perceptions. A few years back he did some sort of tour around India, and my mom, an avid Entourage follower, watched Jeremy like a hawk. Now, instead of the starving, suffering, dying masses of Calcutta, she has Jeremy drinking coconut water in Kerala (South India) as a reference point.
So, perhaps they have some idea of what they're getting in to, and yet again, maybe not. On the phone with my brother, I find myself explaining a few unexpected things. Two weeks before his arrival, he is planning, he says, to ship a box of "things we may need" in advance. Like what? "I'm thinking of doing some bottled water and power bars, granola bars, and some sheets."
"Do you think I live in a tent and forage for nuts and berries?" I ask. This is not Survivor. I'm not sure what he's planning to do with the sheets--maybe use them to form a rope ladder and escape from India one night, but I talk him down from the ledge and convince him that I can provide sheets and enough water to last the duration of the trip: two weeks.
So, after much counseling about packing light and bringing an open mind, my mom, brother and his lady friend arrived a few nights ago. With them they carried several requested imports: Green and Black's Organic Dark Chocolate bars, Whole Foods Organic Crunchy Peanut Butter, and Kiehl's face wash. It's the little things.
What's on the itinerary?
Day 1: Fresh coconut water! Brunch at my man friend's house with assorted and sundry friends and food. Thai foot massages. Flight to Cochin, Kerala.
Day 2: Breakfast at Kashi Art Cafe, spirited haggling with Kashmiri shopkeepers. Tinkering with Chinese fishing nets. Antiqueing in "Jew Town." Visit to one of the only synagogues in India. Kathakali dance performance. Dinner of fresh seafood in coconut curry.
Day 3: Night on a houseboat with a tour around the backwaters of coastal Kerala. A canoe ride through a little waterside village. Fresh-from-the- boat lake prawns for dinner.
Day 4: Back to cochin for more shopping. Ferry ride to Willingdon Island for Keralite dinner at Taj Malabar Hotel restaurant, Rice Boat.
Day 5: Up at 6 to bath baby elephants. Ride big elephant. Lunch with a friend and her daughter. Last minute haggling on a Leica camera that may or may not work. Flight to Delhi.
Day 6: Up at 5 for train to Agra to see India's wonder, the Taj Mahal.
I'll stop here. I've caught you up to where we stand.
Now, the question remains, who will be the first tribe member to be voted off the island?
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Thursday, January 22, 2009
The Kenyans are Coming!
I write to you from almost midway through the Mumbai marathon, panting amidst a sea of Indians on a road to nowhere. It is 8:15 AM, the sun is illuminating the bumpy road, and I am on my 9th or 10th kilometer when I hear a helicopter cutting through the air. I look up in between breaths and it seems to be coming straight at me. The cameras are on me, and I'm thinking I'm going to be on Indian CNN tonight. Then I hear insistent honking behind me, and a guy on a megaphone is screaming at me to get out of the way. A double decker bus goes streaming past, and it is followed by an SUV carrying photographers. Behind them are two motorcyclists speeding along carrying guys who are sitting backwards and adamantly yelling at me and my fellow half marathoners. Their wildly waving arms violently express the need for us to move out of the way!
Ten seconds later, there are footsteps, methodical and light. A tightly packed crew is suddenly at my side. I turn my head to see an army of eighteen Kenyan marathoners go gliding by. What's left is a saucy display of short shorts and tight butts. They appear to be doing a 100 meter sprint; it's effortless. I look around at my fellow runners and we express admiration for their strength and speed and agility, amidst a sea of well-meaning expletives. It was truly amazing.
It was not nearly as amazing, when the race leaders passed me yet again, as I was in my last 500 meters. By this point, I was hobbling, and had given up all hope of pulling out a valiant sprint to the finish. Once again, I was told to get out of the road, because the Kenyans are coming! I, and the 85 year old man that was setting my pace, made our way to the curb to let them have their space. Good thing we did. We enabled three Kenyans to finish in the top three. Two Ethiopians followed quickly behind, then another five Kenyans.
Needless to say, I did not win the race. SpongeBob SquarePants and I crossed the finish line at the same time. He couldn't see out of his costume, and had two people holding his hands. I won't reveal my time...but, this should give you an idea: I got passed, not once, but twice by the Kenyans.
Unfortunately, the photographer I hired (my special male friend) turned out to be a better cheerleader and race-day driver. The camera refused to cooperate as I went, ahem, sprinting past. Please accept the other attached photo as a memory and symbol of the resilience and strength expressed by many people during the race--this man ran the marathon without shoes.
In all seriousness, running the race was an incredible opportunity to witness the humanity in Mumbai. People from all walks of life--from the slums, from high rise apartments--came out of their homes to watch and cheer us on. The most surreal moment occurred when two furry sheep galloped down the road as if they were running to the finish. I have no idea where they were going. Perhaps, like me, they were spurred on by the beat of the Bollywood music playing on the loud speakers.
I ran the race on behalf of an NGO based in Mumbai called Apnalaya. They support women and children living on top of a landfill/dump in Shivaji Nagar. To learn more about Apnalaya, go to www.apnalaya.org.
Diagnosis and Cure
I have an explanation. Fluorescent lighting. Those white tube lights so loved by Indians (no doubt, they’re cheaper), when coupled with relentless ceiling fans, create a subtle, strobe light effect. When you’re trying to write a proposal, a strobe light is, well, irritating.
So, I went to the doctor after work yesterday. His name is Dr. M, and he is the uncle of a friend. Dr. M’s waiting room was empty, so I saw him immediately. Let me be frank. The man is quite odd. He is verging on 75, and seems to have not yet discovered the notion of personal grooming. There is hair growing out of every part of his head. It’s sprouting from his ear rims, the inside of his ears, and coming out of his nose. It’s colonizing his cheeks, having thoroughly exhausted the space on his sideburns. His eyebrows are a hanging garden of salt and pepper vines. To be honest, I’m not sure how he can hear or breathe.
He has a quaky voice that manages to run deep and high in the course of a single word (like the old voiceover on the Smucker's jam commercials…"With a name like Smucker’s it Has to be Good"), and his hearing is not excellent. But, he’s sweet, and like a grandparent that you listen to selectively, he supplies bits of “wisdom” amidst a slew of words that pass the time.
Other Indian doctors I’ve been to make and prescribe their own yellow and pink pills like they’re playing out their own version of Valley of the Dolls. Comparatively, Dr. M seems quite innocent, after you get past the face shrubbery.
So, I sat down on Dr. M’s examination table and told him about my ailments. He flashed a standard yellow flashlight in my eyes and told me to follow the shine, and he asked about my eating habits. He took my pulse and blood pressure. Then he inquired about the amount of time I spend in front of the computer. About 10 or so hours, I estimated. Say what? Problem solved for Dr. M.
Diagnosis revealed: You have brain fag, he said. Pardon? Brain fag. It comes from eye fag, and now it’s turned into brain fag.
Pretty sure that Dr. M doesn’t know about the other meanings of the word fag, so I heard him out. Apparently, my brain is tired. Which explains why I couldn’t remember how to spell budget the other day. My eyes are sore from looking at the computer—which means that I definitely shouldn’t be writing about this little episode right now on this computer (shame on you for contributing to my woes). The “eye fag” pain is being transferred to my frontal cortex, which is causing brain fag.
I didn’t have the courage to ask Dr. M why he was using the word fag…because he launched into something about fantasizing in order to fix it.
You need to fantasize more, he said. Do you meditate? I nodded. Well, do that, and lay down and fantasize more. Awkward, no, coming from a grandfather figure? Nod, smile, right right.
The Japanese do it, he said. And they have one of the healthiest aging populations on the planet. They meditate and do crosswords. It’s good to stimulate the brain that way.
He prescribed a pill and a tonic, more fantasizing, and less computer time—only 2 hours a day. Bloody unlikely, I thought.
All this wisdom and cure cost for $6, only.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
I have arrived
So, when I walked up to the man at the little desk at the NGMA, he says, "For you," pointing to my Indian friend, "it's ten rupees." "You," pointing at me, "it's 150." What?! I was ready for a fight.
"Look," I said, "I work for an Indian company and live here." "I get paid in Indian rupees." "I am..." I started to lay out my defense line by line. I've tried this tactic before at the Prince of Wales Museum (now known by the impossibly long Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, which is such a mouthful that most people still call it POW) across the street, and it fell on deaf ears.
The NGMA ticket collector asked to see my identification. I had left it in the car which was several blocks away. I started up my defense again. "Really, I work here. I make rupees and spend rupees, just like you. I shouldn't have to pay the higher rate." He gave me a reluctant look. He looked around. And nodding his head side to side, said, "Ok, ten then."
Insert angels smiling down from above. Miraculous. I felt like I'd arrived. I felt like I was an Indian! As I toured around the museum I smiled at other foreigners smugly.
I know it may not seem like a big deal for those of you reading from outside of India. But, for a person who has been living here for awhile, and contributing to the economy and the community for years, I feel justified in wanting to be acknowledged in some way--as not just another passerby, visitor, tourist, foreigner, outsider.
My crusade has only begun. Next stop: the Taj Mahal.
I'm scheduled to go in two weeks. The Taj is not only the pinnacle of Indian beauty and architecture, it is a glowing example of the fees levied on those from the Western world. Twenty rupees for Indians. A whopping 970 for foreigners!
Will let you know how my argument goes there.